Playful.

Céret — UN: A small hen for lunch and a third cup of coffee by noon. My fourth day in Cèret, a town famous for artists. Picasso lived here just one summer, Modigliani and Braque for a few. The Museum of Moder...

Food, Trains, Travel

A mild case of grape thievery.

Céret — I sit on the train to get here. I drink coffee and water in equal parts. The train does the work and I rest, like the rest of us, hungover, on the seat, my legs coiled. Instead of conversation, mutua...