Telašćica Nature Park, on the island of Dugi Otok. One of my favorite places of this entire trip. Located approx. 45 minutes by ferry from the coast near Zadar, get off at the town of Sali.

There are clustered bluffs thrusting defiant feet into the sea, an interior coast spotted with tiny, uninhabited islands, a fleet of aimless yachts, running in their smooth and soundless loops, a salt lake that used to be the islanders primary source of income, and a refuge for Croatian donkeys — smaller and sturdier than the common breed, but abandoned in ever increasing numbers by a modernizing local population. Now they wander the stony interior of the island, staying near sea level, and will surprise you as you’re watching the sunset, by nuzzling your palm for food.