We arrived here today after sailing (yes sailing!) early this morning from Tracy Arm in steep seas (no one else out but a tug)—a long day on the water in weeks of long days on the water. A shower, finally (don’t ask us to count back the days to the last one in a laundromat in Wrangell). Pacific cod and fries for dinner from a parking lot stand. All of Auke down on the docks in the evening, looking over the new arrivals. A flurry because several mega yachts are moored to the outside of the breakwater. We all look up at them and gawk and talk about who’s fishing what, where, and where we’re going next. Glacier Bay for many of us, the Bering Sea for others. Stacks of fresh fish alongside one fishing vessel when we come in—halibut, pacific cod, salmon…A man shows a young boy and girl how to gut and clean and filet them (a lesson I learn, one fish at a time, which is how we catch them, feeling out its skeleton with my fingers, trying not to draw my own blood).