Looking back over the last two weeks one thing sticks out. The roads. The long empty roads that stretched out so far in front of us - carless - for mile after dramatic mile. We covered over 2000 miles in our compact little Toyota.

We struggled over mountain passes - singing American Pie at the top of our voices to stay sane as the dirt road dropped off into a chasm - and round the shores of fjord after beautiful fjord. We hit highway one again and again as we curved up and down along diversions, planned and spontaneous. And above all we marvelled at the drama that unfolded in front of us.

The act of geological creation was frozen, lava flows, ancient caldera, smoking ground and sheer sided youthful mountains. They all opened themselves to us as we drove along that empty highway. I was - and am - amazed that so few people get out here to explore this extraordinary country.