Wednesday, back to Cairo - under palm trees nearly all the way. The dust which spreads at their feet is speckled by the sun coming through the apertures between them - a field of blooming beans perfumes the air - the sun is hot and good. I find a beetle under my horse. We cross the Nile at Bedechein, leaving Tourah on the other side of the Nile to our right. Big expense, flat, with sand going up to the tombs of the Mamluks, good sun, feeling of being on the road, powdering, heat. I hug my horse between my knees and I go hunched, head on my chest. We enter the city through the Citadel.

This Wednesday 12th was my 28th birthday.