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On the way back.

by Cassie Marketos

Pamplona — I’m really going to miss this place. I’m going to miss the balcony overlooking the tiny Old City street. I’m going to miss the coffee shop and the potato tortillas under glass. I’m going to miss my morning slice, a cup of coffee, my book, and standing at the counter in the afternoon light. I’m going to miss the solitude and being surrounded by lively old men with their eyeglasses and walking cane...

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by Cassie Marketos

Pamplona — In Pamplona, start your morning in the old cafe on La Plaza del Castillo. It will be raining, because it is November, and the season has just passed. (Except, there is no season in Pamplona. Just hot,...



by Cassie Marketos

Pamplona — My friend got a turkey from the woman at his local mercado. “Pavo?” he asked. “Tienes pavo?” She shook her head, like everybody else had, but with an addendum. She could special order one for us — wh...


Don't leaf.

by Cassie Marketos

Pamplona — My dear friend Kristen publishes a thoughtful food magazine called Saucy. She confided to me that one past issue contained the undercurrent of a significant, long term relationship. I told her I would...

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