Dusk, when the sun slipped beneath the horizon and the sky in the north deepened to a dark blue—that was when the legacy of Abisko really began.

We spent the nights refreshing forecasts and brewing coffee upstairs in the hostel before heading outside to stand under the night sky, where we would share stories and pass around a bottle of rum, waiting for that elusive aurora. We became well-versed in the language of solar flares and ISO settings. The night was ours.

It was great. I wouldn’t trade those nights for anything. But all the same, I had a little farther to go. My dream was to sleep outside, so that’s what I would do.

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